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Essentially there are two types of mould
support case. Those made of Glass Fibre or
those made of plaster.
Their primary function is to provide support
(as the name suggests) to soft moulding compounds
like latex, silicone and Vinamold. First lets
take a look at fibre glass versions.
First complete the construction of your mould.
Allow it to fully dry or cure before starting
on a support case.
In the case of latex, wrap the whole piece
in foil and coat with wax to ensure good release.
For silicone and Vinamold this step is not
essential.
Decide on a split point, much the same as
a multi-sectional mould, and build a clay
or plasticine ridge along it. Paint that with
PVA and wax it. Of course there will be occasions
where the mould will sit in the case and be
removable without splitting the case in two.
If this is the case don't build in a split
point for the hell of it!
Now follow the same procedure as if you were
making a mould of the mould itself in two
sections (see sectional GRP moulds and imagine
the former is your mould), gelcoat then reinforcement.
For a support case two layers is usually enough,
for larger pieces more may be needed. When
you have finished the first half remove the
clay strip, pva and wax the flange showing
and do the other side the same way.
To hide the fibres, paint a thixotropic resin
or gelcoat top layer for a real professional
look to the case. Dont forget a little
wax additive in either to assist with cure
and ensure a tack free finish.
The final thing to consider is the side that
the case and mould will sit on during casting.
It should be flat and stable. Either that
or it will have to be sat in a shallow bed
of sand to stabilise it.
Allow it all to cure and then drill bolt
holes through the flanges. You can reinforce
these with washers like the grp sectional
mould if you like. Once all is cured, separate
the two halves, remove the mould and its cast
and reassemble the whole thing. The mould
is now ready for use and the case will do
all the support work.
For a plaster support case the principal
is very similar. Instead of using resin you
would be using plaster. And instead of glass
fibres you would use jute scrim. The process
is basically the same with a split point,
clay ridge etc, but don't use PVA and wax
for the release agents. Go for a sanding sealer
or shellac and petroleum jelly. Seal first
then apply the jelly.
Plaster support cases are not as strong as
resin cases and they are significantly heavier
than their composite counterparts. The joining
points will wear much faster and if at all
possible use a fibre glass case over a plaster
case as the lifespan is so much greater.
Even if your mould is perfectly flat and
level on the bottom and a single piece, still
consider a small tray like case to sit it
in. This will ensure that even if your working
surface is rough, the mould will be straight
and true. If you want to build such a case,
carve small keyways into the base of your
mould to make sure the mould always sits right
in the tray.
We have reproduced this in pdf format for
you to download and refer to. Do not reproduce
without prior permission from www.tomps.com:
Mould
Support Cases Guide
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